|These are dolls that are currently for sale!|
|Quick Fix Commission Info|
Minimum order £180/$270
They tend to cap at £400/$600
Wings and colours affect price the most
Send me a reference sheet or description and I can give you a quote.
My policies are here: magweno.deviantart.com/journal…
Trade waiting list
Commissions Waiting List
confirmed, deposit unpaid
What do you use to sculpt dolls?
Polymer clay- super sculpey, fimo soft primarily, sometimes mixed together in equal amounts.
Chavant le beau touche- a reusable wax-based clay made for making sculptures intended for moulding in silicone and casting.
How do you attach the heads/feet to the fur/body?
With glue! Simple as that. Experiment and find out which works best for you in your country (and environment - humidity and temperature make a big difference).
I use UHU all-purpose, Bostik multi-purpose and plain ol' hot glue.
What is Fimo?
Fimo is a polymer clay (meaning it's plastic based) which is baked in a standard home oven at 110ºC for half an hour to cure it. It feels a little like elasticy play-dough when fresh and sets hard when baked.
Can I use another type of clay for my doll?
You could use air drying clay too. That would be fine! Go to a craft shop or website, read the clay packets and find out how they work and what they do. Research what they're best used for (eg. air drying clay with fibers in it like Nuclay is sometimes best used for small delicate things like petals).
What do you use for eyes?
For the resin dolls (jackalopes, fox-dragons, kirins, dragon pups, mofs and gryphons) they are painted fimo with 2-4 layers of high gloss.
For OOAK dolls (commissions) sometimes I paint resin cabochons and sometimes I paint the back of glass cabochons and embed them before I bake the clay.
What varnish do you use?
I use Humbrol Gloss Varnish 049 for resin cast, acrylic painted pieces
Plasticote matt spray for resin cast, acrylic painted pieces
Humbrol Enamel Varnish for items painted in enamels
Vallejo Matt Varnish for fimo painted with acrylics
What gauge wire do you use?
I don't know! (That's helpful isn't it )
I buy steel wire from a local gardening centre, it works out a bit cheaper and softer than the stuff I can get in hardware shops (like B&Q or Travis Perkins).
I would recommend starting with a thick-ish wire that is easily malleable with your fingers. Bend the ends of wire spools in shops to get an idea of what works and consider scale. If you are making a big doll you will need thick wire.
Where do you get your ball and socket joints from?
Be warned: this stuff can be expensive when you factor in customs and bank fees, it also does not bend at a 90º angle. You need to email them with the part numbers you need and they will send you an invoice to be paid by international bank transfer. It's likely your bank will charge you a fee for this.
If based in the US CR's Crafts also sell the same product but a slightly dated version.
Where can I get good fur?
I buy my fur from fashion supplies wholesalers. They send me scrap bags and occasionally I order small sizes as the furs I use often come in at way over £60 a meter.
In the past I have used Mohair Bear Making Supplies, they ship internationally but can be hit-or-miss with quality and service.
You can go to haberdasheries and look at their fur, I sometimes go to a dressmakers supplies store as they stock soft furs for bridal capes and things.
If you live in America then I'm told Jo Anns and Michaels often have nice fur. Also try Etsy, there are a number of sellers on there. mammalfeathers buys her fur in scrap packs from a supplier on Etsy and loves it, as the mixed variety inspire new designs.
How do you make a pattern for a doll?
I would recommend reading through these blog entries to get a handle on drawing patterns.
Personally, when working on my own projects, I sketch up what I want to achieve over a few days. When I'm happy with shape and proportions I then do a scale drawing of the front, back, side and top of the doll to get a sense of how chunky or skinny I want it and where. This is then drafted into a pattern, cut out, sewn, tweaked, cut out again, sewn, chopped up, drawn out, cut, sewn, tweaked etc etc rinse and repeat until you have something you're happy with It's a long process… But awesome fun.
How do you dye fur?
People have written books on this! A good starting point is to go and search on Cosplaying forums and teddy bear making forums. There is a lot of information already out there. Google keywords like "airbrushing fake fur" "dyeing faux fur" "staining plastic" "dyeing fursuits" "markings on teddy bears" etc Think out of the box.
Personally, on my work, I use watered down acrylics in very, very thin layers and try to make sure the acrylic dries almost as soon as it hits the fur. Thin layers, built up very slowly. This is then brushed with a teasel brush until soft.
I also use copic markers or sharpies from time to time for more detailed work.
In 2011 *Wood-Splitter-Lee uses Tulip fabric spray paint to colour her dolls, which she bought in Michaels, but Britain doesn't have a Michaels so I haven't tried them yet. Tins of fabric spray paint are available from a number of suppliers but I have not tried them - I have an airbrush.
How do you make wings?
That's a secret! Sorry. The one thing I won't budge on.
How do you stick feathers on?
Using hot glue primarily, Devcon's 5 minute epoxy sometimes and rarely Bostik multi-purpose glue.
How do you cast your dolls?
There are university COURSES on mould making and casting that take years to finish - what I know is the teeny tiny miniscule tip of a gargantuan iceberg and please be aware I have NO formal training on this subject.
The basic principle is that you have an object you want to replicate, so you get a material that solidifies over the object (the mould material). You then remove the object and pour in a liquid (casting material). The liquid cures and solidifies and you remove a perfect replica of the original object!
Each material used (original object, mould material and casting material) is interchangeable with any of thousands of options!
I sculpt parts to be cast in a wax based clay (chavant le beau touche) or polymer clay (fimo), mould them in silicone (tinsil 1025) and cast in polyureathane resin (rencast fc53). All these materials are available from here if based in the UK or here if based in the US.
The general rule of thumb is if you want your replica to be flexible you make a mould from a rigid material (like fibreglass or plaster) and if you want your replica to be rigid you make the mould from something flexible (like silicone or gelatine).
All these materials have different chemicals in them, some react badly with others. For example, silicone reacts badly (ie. won't cure) with sulphur, and a lot of sculpting clays have sulphur in them. So if you want to make a silicone mould of a clay sculpt, make sure the clay doesn't have sulphur in it.
Silicones come in different hardnesses (Shores) as well as curing times and even base materials! Platinum silicone is EXPENSIVE but you can cast polyESTER resins in it - clear casting resins work best with plat sil. Tin based silicone is dirt cheap (also known as RTV - Room temperature vulcanisation) but isn't so good with clear casting.
There is a WORLD of knowledge out there on casting.
<a href="http/davidneat.wordpress.comDavid Neat is a goldmine of information for all sorts of professions including mouldmaking and casting.
Smooth-On have a lot of tutorials on their site on casting and mouldmaking and conveniently sell the products too!
Google keywords like: "mouldmaking and casting tutorials" "silicone molds" "casting in resin" "casting miniatures" "warhammer casting" "mold making basics"