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September 28, 2013
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Art Doll Q+A group

Journal Entry: Sat Sep 28, 2013, 1:45 AM
If you have a specific question about making art dolls you should take a look at the PosableArtDolls group. We have an open blog so you can submit your question and every person who follows the group will see it in their message centre and will be able to answer.

So far we have had :
Finishes for Polymer Clay and Acrylic Paint:Edit:
Thought I should let you all know, I am now using varathane and I just LOVE the stuff. It works great on just about everything, too. It's fairly cheap, a small can will keep you going for a long time. Just transfer a little bit into a small jar to use, so that you keep the main can closed and undisturbed as much as possible. Also it doesn't have much of a smell at all, much less than the sculpey brand varnish, so you can use it indoors and paint little things right next to your nose without feeling like you are poisoning yourself.
The glossy kind is very nice, and with multiple coats you can get things VERY shiny. The satin kind is NOT matte, but more of a dull shine. Do NOT use it if you want a perfectly matte surface. I do not know if there is a true matte varnish; I have decided just to leave the paint unvarnished where it needs to be very matte.
Please note that they changed the labeling somewhat on the cans not all that long ago, I think it doesn't say diamond on it anymore
Resin casting mold advice/help?I want to start making dolls with resin parts but have never used resin or molds before.
I don't know what kind would be best (recommendations would be awesome), though I am considering the pourable smooth-on.
But the pourable smooth-on says it should not be used with clay that contains sulfur which I believe sculpey has.
Does it cause the mold to not form properly? Or does it just make the resin cloudy? (which doesn't matter as I will be painting it).
Also if you use an armature do you attach it after the resin has set or do you stick in in as its curing?
What's the best way of doing fragile/thin parts?
How do you get a small seam/not noticeable line where the mold was cut?
Any help is appreciated.
Submitted by :icontealxultimate:TealXUltimate
Shipping and Tracking Art Dolls InternationallyCMWyvern asked me recently about the different terms used when sending parcels internationally and I felt it's information that would be useful to a lot of people.
This journal is focused on the different options courier companies offer - insurance, tracking and delivery confirmation - rather than how to package your item (but I can do a journal on that too if people are interested).
Insurance is essential incase the postal service lose your parcel, it means they will compensate you for the value of the contents lost and that will enable you to make a replacement to send to your customer. You need to have proof that the contents were worth what they were worth when making a claim, so check your couriers website for more info on that. You may need to include something like invoices in the parcel, or make sure the invoices you send have very clearly what was in the parcel, the address of the person it was going to and how much they paid. This needs to be an official printed document
Adhesive advice?I'm trying to determine which glue is best for adhering wool to plastic (urethane plastic painted with acrylic paints, specifically), and cures transparent and waterproof. Basically, I've been playing around with flocking cast resin with wool, but I'd like to find a glue with a longer pot life that doesn't give me a headache. I've been mostly using silicone caulking, since it cures clear and waterproof, and the only thing it releases during curing is acetic acid so it's fairly safe with ventilation and doesn't give me a headache. Here's an example of what I'm using it for.
So far I've tried:
Silicone I caulk of all things, and it actually works. The downside is it cures too fast in this humid environment.
E6000 works but gives me a headache no matter how much ventilation there is. I hate the smell.
Fixit Paste also works, but cures opaque. Coloring it with paint doesn't work well because the paint dries
Flexible, realistic scales for dollsI've run into a design dilemma. I am trying to find a solution to scales on a posable doll.

this was the original concept sketch. In the end, I decided to change the facial structure, but plan on keeping the body fairly similar.

Here's what Epsilon looks like now. I want to carry the scale design over into the belly scales, and possibly a few accents. The issue is how to go about doing such. We've had a few ideas rolled around, and have only ruled out methods. Seeing as this doll will be around 3 and 1/2 feet long, cost is a concern.
Requirements:
~ Scales need to be flexible, so to avoid interfering overly much with the movement of the doll.
~ Scales need to be 3-D, able to take texture and customized details, and in the end apply a sealant to achieve a scaley, shiny look.
~ Scales need to be able to be sewn onto the fur fabric
~ Scales need to be custom done in varying sizes, and quite a few of them. castings won't work here.
Has anyone done somethin


These are problem-solving questions specific to peoples personal projects and some general advice. All of it is useful and interesting, so please add the group to your watch-list if you feel like helping or submit your journal if you're stuck!

Please remember to be polite.

For very basic and general questions about making your first art doll please refer to my tutorial Armature to Art Doll:
Armature to Art Doll Part 1 by Magweno

Add a Comment:
 
:iconteligress1988:
Teligress1988 Featured By Owner Sep 28, 2013  Hobbyist Artisan Crafter
how do i join
Reply
:iconmagweno:
Magweno Featured By Owner Sep 28, 2013  Professional Artisan Crafter
Just go to #PosableArtDolls and click on "join our group", near the top :)
Reply
:icontealxultimate:
TealXUltimate Featured By Owner Sep 28, 2013  Student General Artist
I LIVE there.
Reply
:iconmagweno:
Magweno Featured By Owner Sep 28, 2013  Professional Artisan Crafter
:D
Reply
Add a Comment: